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.hugo*
public/

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---
title: "{{ replace .Name "-" " " | title }}"
date: {{ .Date }}
draft: true
---

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baseURL = 'https://2022roadtripnose.weirdnet.nl/'
languageCode = 'en-us'
title = '2022 Roadtrip NO/SE'
theme = 'hugo-theme-notrack'
mainSections = ["blog"]
# disqusShortname = "example"
paginate = 4
[params]
author = "Pim and Paul"
siteHeading = "Roadtrip NO/SE" # defaults to author
favicon = "hugo_grotius.png" # Adds a small icon next to the page title in a tab
showBlogLatest = true
mainSections = ["blog"]
showTaxonomyLinks = false
nBlogLatest = 30 # number of blog post om the home page
blogLatestHeading = "Our adventures"
footer = "This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License."
[params.social]
email = "info@paphosting.net"
[taxonomies]
year = "year"
month = "month"
tags = "tags"
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[permalinks]
blog = "/blog/:year/:month/:day/:slug"

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---
title: ""
date: 2022-09-03T16:39:16+02:00
draft: true
---
{{< image src="/img/scandinavia.png" width="400px" float="right" >}}
## Go North! Until there is no more ...
Hello world. We, Pim and Paul, have been on a few roadtrips ever since we've had a car available to us. These trips have brought us across the United Stated in an epic 2010 Road Trip NY to LA, but also to the Islands West of us in a fun-filled 2013 Road Trip UK and IE. It's been a while, but this year we shall be going North until there is no more road ... to the Northern Cape. Something something Sweden to, and Norway fro, or the other way around. Because planning is not our strong suite. We are totally going to wing it all the way there and back. It will be a blast.

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---
title: 'Blog'
date: 2022-09-03T16:40:33+02:00
Tags: []
Categories: []
draft: true
menu:
main:
identifier: "blog"
name: "Blog"
weight: 5
---

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---
title: 'Day 0 - Zurich (via Munich) to Almere'
date: 2022-08-24T22:13:00+02:00
Tags: []
Categories: []
draft: false
---
{{< image src="/img/day0/map.png" width="300px" float="right" >}}
Since our original plans in 2019 have changed, here's a bonus-starter-post for you all. Originally, Paul would fly down to Zurich and our trip would start from my place. However, that's no longer happening, as I have to be in Munich for work, so my roadtrip starts a bit earlier than his. This is not day one for me, although as computer programmers might start counting from 0, let me give you a little prelude on the leadup.
On Monday of this week, I drove from my home town of Brüttisellen (near Zurich in Switzerland) to Munich (Bavaria, Germany) for a work event. Although the event was 3 days (Tue-Thu) I only was able to join for Monday evening and Tuesday all day. It was totally worth it. After the pandemia of the last few years, physical in-person face time has been virtually absent and I have really missed it. So after a full day of learning about and contributing to setting the direction of my team at work, I took a sleep and on Wednesday morning, grabbed a quick sandwich in the office and made my way to Almere.
When I started the drive, I noticed that it'd take me straight past Frankfurt, and I have a router running there defra0.ipng.ch which I had always wanted to connect an out-of-band network into, so I figured now is as good a time as any. So on this nice Wednesday morning at 9am or so, I took off, parked the car at Equinix FR5 (it is very convenient to have a parking spot in the middle of a large city!), went for a quick in and out to connect the OOB, and drive further to Cologne, Essen, Arnhem, and up to Amsterdam.
I arrived there just after 9pm, and my trip odometer shows a cool 1'125 km at this point. But, I am at src that is to say the place where our roadtrip will start on Thursday. We will go to dest which is the Nordkapp, tippy of Norway and about 3800km or so drive from Almere.
Paul had already done a little bit of grocery shopping (the essentials like chips and water and such) but we didn't have breakfast for the morning -- so we hopped over to Albert Heijn and we procured a good EUR 72,- worth of ... everything but bread and eggs and bacon :) instead we ended up with liquorish and sour candy and coke and pringles and stroopwafels and lemons (you can't have a roadtrip without lemons!). We turned in at around midnight and ready to get up on Thursday morning, day 1, where our blog begins ...
## Pictures of the Day
{{< gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-24/IMG_4655.jpg" caption="Driving from Munich to Almere">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-24/IMG_4660.jpg" caption="Pim relaxes at the supercharger in Duiven">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-24/IMG_4662.jpg" caption="Pim drives into the sunset">}}
{{< /gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-modal >}}
{{< gallery-script >}}

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---
title: 'Day 1 - Almere to Copenhagen'
date: 2022-08-25T22:13:02+02:00
Tags: []
Categories: []
---
{{< image src="/img/day1/map.png" width="300px" float="right" >}}
It started with a few eggs (but no bread!) at 07:30, Henrieke was going to take off for work at 07:45 and so were we. Car was reasonably charged, enough to get us to Drachten at least, and we trailed Henrieke in her car until Emmeloord after which we said our virtual goodbyes. Then, we took off a little bit but only after sticking a stapel and iconic mascot to our windshield: A smurf! This dude was leisurely hanging out for, i'm sure, at least 2km until he flooped off of the windshield. Oh well, we'll get another, there's plenty of smurfs in the sea.
With that tradition out of the way, we made our way up to Copenhagen. Paul had made a date with Jaap, Henrieke's brother who lives in the city, and we said we'd take about 12hrs all-up from Almere to city center of Copenhagen. We did pretty well! We stopped at a few places along the way for charging and a spot of lunch, and as well got the required geocache on Day1, as I will be logging (at least) one geocache each day. So, we took turns driving 2hrs or so each, and alternating the charging sessions. We had very good driving today, with limited traffic congestion, just a little bit around Hamburg and a little bit in Denmark around Odense because of roadworks of 14kms or so on the E20 there.
{{< image src="/img/day1/charger.png" width="300px" float="left" >}}
We made a few too many charging stops, generally because we were a bit enthusiastic and wanted to make a longer haul of 370km (car range is 420km) but did not get ideal driving conditions and ended up at ~216 Wh/km which meant we would fall short, so we changed our plans and charged at Middelfart (hhrrhrr, he said Fart), and then again at Køge (just south of CPH, pictured left, there are 26 superchargers of 150kW each here!). All in all that I think was a good choice because now we ended up with enough juice to go to Copenhagen and then our hotel (where I write this, the Copenhagen Go Hotel in Kastrup just off the E20 and less than four kilometers from the bridge to Malmö.
{{< image src="/img/day1/sirene.png" width="300px" float="right" >}}
After that last charge we made our way to Jaap's place in the dead center of the city, if he spits out of his back window he can hit the royal palace, and if he looks the other way he can say a quick prayer straight into Frederik's church. We had a nice dinner in a local place, drank a few beers, saw the obligatory mermaid (yo soy mermaid) and got a geocache in the harbor, and then I drove us to the Go Hotel for a nice night's sleep. It will be a good one, as today we drove a good 850km and we're not planning on doing that every day. But: good news is that we're one day ahead of schedule already because originally Paul would fly down to Zurich and day1 would be Zurich to Hanover -- rather now we're already at the Swedish border and I can smell it already!
## Pictures of the Day
{{< gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-25/IMG_4663.jpg" caption="We cannot roadtrip without our loyal Strumpf">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-25/IMG_4668.jpg" caption="First scandic country: Denmark">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-25/IMG_4669.jpg" caption="Pim finds a geocache near a supercharger in Denmark">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-25/IMG_4670.jpg" caption="Beautiful bridge Den Nye Lillebæltsbro">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-25/IMG_4673.jpg" caption="Supercharger here means business!">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-25/IMG_4675.jpg" caption="Pim posing in front of Frederik's church">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-25/IMG_4677.jpg" caption="The Little Mermaid in Copenhagen">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-25/IMG_4678.jpg" caption="We found a geocache on the way to the car">}}
{{< /gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-modal >}}
{{< gallery-script >}}

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---
title: 'Day 10 - Moskenes, hiking Tindstinden'
date: 2022-09-03T17:40:27+02:00
Tags: []
Categories: []
---
## The Plan
{{< image src="/img/day10/map.png" width="300px" float="right" >}}
Yesterday night we went to bed not too late, because we knew we had a big day
today. I didn't sleep all too well, the matrass is a bit lumpy and I was on the
top bed of the bunk. I tossed and turned a bit before falling asleep, and I woke
up with a little bit of a lower back ache. I'm getting old! Although I put the
alarm at 08:00, I was up before that, but it was way too late apparently,
because all of our housemates had already left for the day.
We came to the Lofoten for one thing -- hiking. There's a few really nice trails
in Norway, and one of them is yet to come (Besseggen in the Jotunheimen, Alex
will know who lives there!), but today we have another one that's on my list.
Being in (almost) the most Western point of the Lofoten, there's only one town
further down the road, and we're going to climb the mountain between _Moskenes_
where our AirBnB is, and that town of _Å i Lofoten_. It's called Tindstinden,
and overlooks a few beautiful lakes, towns along the shoreline, and the
Atlantic. You can see mainland Norway in the background, and if you'd look the
other way, you'd see nothing for about 5'700 kilometers.
## Breakfast
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-03/IMG_5113.jpg" width="300px" float="left" >}}
But first, breakfast. I was in charge of bacon-frying, and Paul was in charge of
eggs-making. This is a very intricate procedure, because you never know how long
to boil an egg before it gets too hard, or if it's not long enough, snotty. And
I have a very low tolerance for incorrectly boiled eggs. "Het is een
natuurproduct!" is what my Dad says - and he's right except products of nature
can also be royally fucked up. But, Paul persevered and made us some totally
delicious eggs. Today's eggs have been boiled for 5 minutes give or take. Marina
commented that they're a bit too goopy, and we agree, so tomorrow he shall boil
the egg for 30 seconds longer.
We had some nice salmon, salami, _Sommarsalat_, the eggs and toast. I made some
Nescafe coffee, but it just isn't as good for me as the Nespresso is. That's OK,
I'll just make two cups to compensate! We pack our backpacks, and I find that
for the last few hundred kilometers (and 19km of hiking), I've been toting
around the coins that Marina had given me: Swedish, Danish and Norwegian Crowns.
I decide I have no use for them right now, so I toss them aside. We then put on
our spiffy new hiking pants, and Paul puts on his blue hiking shoes, we jump in
the car and make the 4km trip to the trailhead. Lots of people hike to
_Munkebu_, but not us. We're going up up up!
## The Trail
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-03/IMG_5139.jpg" width="300px" float="right" >}}
We start off at the [trailhead](https://goo.gl/maps/JmRRtYZTnhFgjTe36) just a
kilometer or so NorthEast of Tind. We park the car and draw a nasty conclusion:
Maybe I did need those coins after all! The parking here is paid, and it's one
of those honor-systems, where you grab an envelope from a little kiosk, put in
the required NOK 50 and put your name/address on the slip, taking the stub and
putting it in your car. Drat! I just tossed the coins in the drawer at the
AirBnB. Luckily, Paul has a EUR 10,- note, so we figure that will have to do.
Paul gleefully writes my home address on the slip though, so that when I get the
parking ticket, he can laugh at me a little bit. I acquiece.
We make our way up the trail, and the first few hundred meters it's quaint.
Then, the slope steepens and we're pretty clear that we're in for it. Although
the hike is only ~3km to the peak of the mountain here (from sea level to 492m /
1'600ft), the slope is the thing that kills you. We're attacking this
mountain-let on all fours. The terrain is rough, there is hardly any marked
path, the only reason we know we're headed in the right direction is on account
of the stomping-feet-hoofmarks of the humans before us. Every now and again we
see a few folks, they are all going up-hill too.
I kind of get annoyed at my Apple watch - every few minutes it does the 'taptap'
on my wrist to ask me if it should stop recording my workout, as it clearly
thinks I am doing nothing. In fact, I am panting and my lungs are on the tip of
my tongue, it's just I'm not making much forward progress so the silly thing
thinks I'm not hiking. Well, Apple, my heartrate of 170 disagrees!!
In the middle of the trail, in for me a somewhat random location, we find a
mailbox. It is not locked, and in it is a logbook in which I happily write my
geocaching signature "Pim from CH" with the date. There are no geocaches on this
trail, and we're about to enter a national park, so there will not be any on the
summit either. This will be my ersatz-geocache :-)
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-03/IMG_7572.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
The higher we get, the more stunning the views are. We really did choose a good
day to go hiking here, the temps are high (15C / 60F) and perfect for hiking.
There's almost no wind, the sun is bright and you can see really far. Under us,
the towns of Tind, Sørvågen, Moskenes and _end of the road_ Å i Lofoten are all
smiling up to us. Some really beautiful lakes are in view too - Stuvdalsvatnet
and Sørvågvatnet from whence we came, and Tindsvatnet on the other side of the
mountain. On the ridge up, you can see all these lakes and towns, and every now
and again a ferry bobs up and down the ocean, mostly going from Moskenes to
Bodø, as we'll do tomorrow morning. But first, we have to hike back down.
We have a spot of lunch and I eat some Tikkels, and we bounce. The way down is
not as much fun for me. I have a mild fear of heights, so this trail is really
not for me. I don't really have a problem going up, however I do have a bit more
difficulty going downhill. At one point, I am afraid I have to report there are
chains and ropes to help climb up/down, and I cannot put myself to doing it. I
hemm and haw, and ultimately just YOLO it and, as if often the case, the step
down is really only 40cm, and my fears here are irrational. After that little
victory, the trip down gets easier. And all-in, we spend 2.25hrs going up this
hill but only 1.25hrs going down it. We take a few ... shortcuts, and end up
taking a slightly different route down than up. We returned to the car at around
14:00.
When we were up there, we saw that the E10 ends in Å i Lofoten, and it makes a
nice little loop there to turn around. We looked it up: The E10 goes from here
all the way to Luleå in Sweden, an 847 kilometer highway. So we had to go check
out that end-point, and we took a picture of Tessa there: end of the road for
you!
## What else ?
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-03/IMG_5263.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
Well, yesterday Paul cooked a fantastic meal for us (Red Pasta), and we had also
bought what I call my _dejetlag steak_, which is broccoli, potatoes, sauteed
onions and mushrooms, and a big steak. Big is not done in Norway (the meat here
is pretty pricy), so we did Big-ish. We decided to move the blog from blogger to
a self-hosted solutiion (based on Hugo), out of principle:
* I wanted to have a photo roll at the bottom of each post (as you see down below).
* And, if you click on a thumbnail, I want it to show you the full resolution picture with a little caption.
* To do this, I don't want to end up editing javascript and HTML as would be the case for Blogger.
* Ideally, I would just add a link to a Google Photos gallery, but this is not available at all.
So out of pure rage and on silly principle, I decided to quit Blogger and move
to a Hugo hosted site on Paul's server. That decision was quickly made, and it
took us the rest of the evening (from 15:00 - now: 23:20), to convert verything
and build the server + SSL certs + photos and such. But: we have what we want
and the next time we do a roadtrip, this will be trivial :-) I will also convert
our 2013 roadrip to the UK + IE, and 2010 roadtrip from New York to Los Angeles,
into the same formatting. It's slick!
Tomorrow morning at 11:00 we drive down the street and into the harbor of
Moskenes, to take the ferry to Bodø, the one which we've seen come and go a few
times already. Tomorrow we'll be on it, for four hours. The car has 240km of
autonomy, and we'll need 120km to get to our first Supercharger in _Storjord_. I
guess you could say we really did plan these few days well!!
## Pictures of the Day
{{< gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5113.jpg" caption="Soft boiled egg to start the day">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5115.jpg" caption="Waterfall at the trail start in Sørvågen">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5139.jpg" caption="0.5 Selfie of Pim, overlooking Stuvdalsvatnet">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5158.jpg" caption="A wide angle view of Stuvdalsvatnet">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5159.jpg" caption="A cute logbook halfway up the trail, signed with Pim from CH">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5160.jpg" caption="The ferry is leaving from Moskenes">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5164.jpg" caption="Paul is marching up the mountain">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5165.jpg" caption="Pim and Paul at the top of Tindstinden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5168.jpg" caption="Pim and Paul at the top of Tindstinden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5170.jpg" caption="A GPS location of us on the tip of Lofoten">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5172.jpg" caption="Looking down on the dark-water lakes below">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5173.jpg" caption="Paul at the summit">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5175.jpg" caption="Pim at the summit">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5179.jpg" caption="The town of Tind with Moskekes to its left">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5182.jpg" caption="A waterfall along the way">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5184.jpg" caption="Tessa is at the end of the E10 - it loops back here">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5185.jpg" caption="Tindstinden, the mountain we just hiked up">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7554.jpg" caption="Paul is posing in front of the waterfall">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7562.jpg" caption="0.5 Selfie of Paul">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7566.jpg" caption="Moskenes in the left background, Tind in to the right in foreground">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7570.jpg" caption="Ågvatnet is stunning from up here">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7572.jpg" caption="We are on our way back down the slopes">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7574.jpg" caption="Another angle of Ågvatnet down below">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7575.jpg" caption="The town of Å i Lofoten">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7576.jpg" caption="The ridge we walked over on the way to Tindstinden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7584.jpg" caption="Pim is triumphant after coming back down the mountain">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7585.jpg" caption="Sørvågvatnet with behind it, Sørvågen">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7586.jpg" caption="The mountain doesn't look as intimidating from down here">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5186.jpg" caption="Paul is relaxing on the couch">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5261.jpg" caption="Our GPS trail of the hike today">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5263.jpg" caption="Dinner: 'dejetlag-steak'">}}
{{< /gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-modal >}}
{{< gallery-script >}}

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---
title: 'Day 2 - Copenhagen to Gävle'
date: 2022-08-26T21:13:04+02:00
Tags: []
Categories: []
---
{{< image src="/img/day2/map.png" width="300px" float="right" >}}
This morning, we left pretty early from our hotel in Copenhagen. First order of business was to get some groceries, so we went to SPAR first. A couple of rolls, some toppings and ingredients for a nice salad later, we left CPH for Sweden. That was a surprisingly smooth experience: we turned onto the E20, and mere minutes later, we were in the tunnel and onto the bridge to Malmö. We drove around Malmö towards Löddeköpinge to charge the car's batteries. While the kWh's were flowing into the car at a high current, we charged our own batteries with some rolls. We figured that we would head up north along the east coast of Sweden at a faster pace, so we could come down more leisurely through Norway. Our initial target for the day became Sundsvall. Pim got himself a cup of coffee, and off we went.
After about three hours of driving we were getting hungry again, so we stopped for another charging session near Ödeshög. As the battery was filling up with 100kW of power, Pim started chopping onion, cucumber and lettuce for lunch. We mixed in some nuts and had an awesome (and healthy!) lunch.
{{< image src="/img/day2/lunch.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
Looking closer at our destination for the day, and factoring charging stops, it would be past 21:00 before we'd arrive in Sundsvall. So instead, we decided to find something a bit closer: Gävle! We're on our way there now, expected arrival time is just before 19:00, excellent timing for our first dinner in Sweden!
One more charging stop was needed, and during this break we set out to find our first geocache in Sweden (ever - Pim's not been here since he started caching). A rather straightforward find, so after that we quickly jumped back in the car and just after seven we arrived at the 2Home hotel in Gävle. We parked the car in the garage and noticed the charging point: awesome! But of course, the adapter to connect the car to the outlet was left in Switzerland, so we'll have to go for a supercharging sessions tomorrow before we continue northbound.
{{< image src="/img/day2/dinner.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
We hauled our stuff up to our hotel room and Pim went for a quick shave and shower to make himself presentable for dinner. En route, we had made reservations at Butchers Steakhouse for 20:00. The reviews were quite promising so we decided to check it out. For starters, we had some pretty good Vitlöksbröd (toasted bread with garlic). Pim had a nice Campo Viejo Rioja and we both ordered the T-bone steak which was no longer available. One of the waiters suggested the rib-eye... in one word excellent! Although not quite medium rare, it was very tender and tasty. So if you're ever in Gävle and looking for a good steak: Butchers Steakhouse is where it's at!
## Pictures of the Day
{{< gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-26/IMG_4683.jpg" caption="Tessa poses for us">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-26/IMG_4684.jpg" caption="The battery is pretty far drained here">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-26/IMG_4687.jpg" caption="Pim makes a salad lunch from the trunk">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-26/IMG_4689.jpg" caption="The salad is delicious">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-26/IMG_4691.jpg" caption="Pim finds a geocache along the way">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-26/IMG_4692.jpg" caption="A fountain in Gävle">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-26/IMG_4694.jpg" caption="Eating a steak in Gävle">}}
{{< /gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-modal >}}
{{< gallery-script >}}

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title: 'Day 3 - Gävle to Skellefteå'
date: 2022-08-27T17:13:05+02:00
Tags: []
Categories: []
---
## Waking Up
{{< image src="/img/day3/map.png" width="300px" float="right" >}}
This morning we got up not too early, I think it must've been 07:20 that my watch gently poked me, and 08:00 when my iPhone less than subtly made a god damn racket, serves me right for not getting up the first time. Our hotel in Gävle was full of bikers (the motor cycle type), and they were bustling around in the hotel dining area, where we found some pretty good breakfast. I had some sandwiches with soft boiled eggs, and another one with ham and cheese. The orange juice was not too sweet (which is a euphemism for watered down), but that works well for me as I am not a sweet tooth.
Morning
We thought we'd maybe do a few fun things in the local town before heading off into the winds -- so we had taken a look at the map to see what Gävle has to offer. Trip Advisor showed us in the top10 that there was a nice walk through the Gamlastaden (the old town), and that there is a museum about prisons from the 1300s, which sounded definitely like something both of us would enjoy. We had to grab the car and thought maybe this is a good time to test the non-supercharger facilities, and yesterday night when we were on our way to dinner, I saw a parking lot with a few chargers. So, off we went, dropped the car at one of 24 charging posts, they are 32A Type2 and way more than my car can take. But what I found was really cool is that my 7 year old fob from The New Motion (now Shell) simply worked. So while the car sipped the juice, we took a small walk.
{{< image src="/img/day3/house.png" width="400px" float="left" >}}
Firstly, we walked past the old city, not once, but twice. Then, we found the thing and walked through it, for about 2 minutes until we were on the other side :-) It was a set of maybe 10 wooden houses painted in the typical iron-red weatherproof paint, with a few signs hanging out the sides. Paul took a few (thousand) pictures of them, because I think he was on a mission to prove that we're also doing cultural things, not just eating chickenwings on the highway. Porque no los dos?! After we did this walk, we went to the second attraction of the city, a museum of swedish history in prisons. However, after walking fully around it trying to find the entrance, once we ended up in what should be the front door, it turns out that it only opens at 12:00 and it's not even 10:45 yet. Also, the shops are all closed, so in the end Paul went into the local bakery to get some sweet pastry of sorts, and we decide to gun it.
## Driving
The drive was somewhat uneventful, mostly. It was a good trek, from Gävle to Sundsvall (the place we wanted to get to originally yesterday, but it was a bit too far out of reach), where we made our first charging stop, where I made us the same type of lunch (salad + nuts) that Paul talked about yesterday, with the leftovers, while Paul used his hands and feet to initiate a dialog with a local taxi driver who was charging his car at the local CHAdeMO outlet. After that quick lunch, we visited the local mall to get an item that Paul had sort of kind of forgotten to bring, and you might say an important object indeed: his jacket! He claimed to have been futzing around with either the winter coat or a lighter summer jacket, as the temps at the Nordkapp would be about 8C, he was undecided on which way to go, and in the end he want "neither" way! So, we convinced ourselves that what better style than to go Svensk Stil which implied a quick stop at the Peak Performance shop at the mall. A few crying bank cards later and we had our totes in hand.
{{< image src="/img/day3/max.png" width="400px" float="left" >}}
From Sundsvall we drove straight up to Umeå for the last charge of the day, it was 17:45 and we weren't exactly hungry yet, but Paul had mentioned that he had seen a bunch of stores called Max which appeared to be some fast food joint, and he asked me if I knew about them, but in my memory, going to Sweden with my parents as a youth, I do not recall ever having heard of or visited s hamburger joint called Max - although truth be told my parents would typically not be caught dead in one of these anyway! So we figured since we had 45min to kill anyway, we may as well grease it up and SEK 289 later, we had burgers and fries and onion rings and a diet 7up to fill up our stomachs. It was quite noisy because for some reason on Saturday nights folks would take their local soccer and athletics kids out to dinner; and they were not all very well behaved (some were trying to yeet french fries into each others' ketchup containers); although some of them were okay, I guess.
## Evening
{{< image src="/img/day3/river.png" width="400px" float="left" >}}
Finally, we made our last leg from Umeå to Skellefteå where I write this. Paul was driving, and all day so far we've had perfect driving conditions, often 110km/h on the 1.5 lane highway (where you have 2 lanes to pass by for a few kilometer, which then switches to 1 lane while the other side has 2 lanes). But at the end of the evening, about 50km before Skellefteå, the road decided to stop being a road and it was just a 12m wide rocky/dirt road as they were doing road construction but had stripped all of the asphalt away. At times Paul went 20km/h or slower, to avoid rocks and dirt and crap from reaching orbit as it spewed out from under our tires. It lasted maybe 10km or so, but the car had estimated our arrival to be 20:04 while in the end we rocked up at the hotel at 20:07, having performed a 609km day, give or take.
We had to loop around the hotel because we could not find the front door, so Paul stayed in the car while I went to the main square to find the Best Western, check in and secure a parking spot in the garage. Then, with room keycard in hand, I went back outside to pick up Paul, who skillfully drove the car two levels down into Mordor, where we let Tessa rest for the night. We however, took a little walk around the town, notably across the bridge and along the river Skellefälven which is indeed a whole mouthful and quite a beautiful river.
## What now?
I looked up that there's 950km left to go to Skarsvåg (in Norway) which is at the base of the Nordkapp itself, so we'll have to make it a two day trip. Today is Saturday August 27th, which means tomorrow we'll be half-way (possibly we can try to find a hotel in Finland!), which in turn means that we'll be at Skarsvåg on Monday 29th. I have therefore booked us a room at the Scandic Honningsvåg, which conveniently has a supercharger, for Monday 29th - Wednesday 31st.
It also means that we will log the dest ([Norges Nordligste](https://coord.info/GC4E279)), N 71° 11.069 E 025° 40.593 within the next 72hrs. After 3 years of waiting, planning, rescheduling and delaying, we're really close now!
## Pictures of the Day
{{< gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4695.jpg" caption="A public charger in Gävle">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4696.jpg" caption="Jon Erik Forsgren">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4698.jpg" caption="The old town of Gävle">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_7405.jpg" caption="The old town of Gävle">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4699.jpg" caption="0.5 Selfie of Pim and Paul">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4721.jpg" caption="caption">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4722.jpg" caption="The Q8 here has CHAdeMO chargers!">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4723.jpg" caption="IKEA in Sweden - home base">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4724.jpg" caption="Pim and Paul sport Peak Performance jackets now">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4725.jpg" caption="A bridge en route">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4726.jpg" caption="Paul wanted to try MAX">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4727.jpg" caption="We have dirt/gravel roads too">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4728.jpg" caption="The river at Skellefteå">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_4729.jpg" caption="The river at Skellefteå">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-27/IMG_7399.jpg" caption="Paul atea a cracker with Jarlsberg">}}
{{< /gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-modal >}}
{{< gallery-script >}}

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title: 'Day 4 - Skellefteå (SE) to Markkina (FI) to Oteren (NO)'
date: 2022-08-28T17:23:16+02:00
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Categories: []
---
## Original Plan
{{< image src="/img/day4/map.png" width="300px" float="right" >}}
When we last wrote, what feels like an eternity ago, we were in lovely Sweden in a town called Skellefteå, which we know now is pronounced a little bit like She-left-tayo, and that is kind of how we feel today too - lady luck has left us in the lurch. It all started just fine in our hotel, we woke up and did our usual grooming, put on clothes, got some great breakfast at the hotel, and then made our way downstairs to -3 to put the things in the car and start our day. Paul drove down the garage yesterday and it was, let's say, toight like a toiger, so this morning I had the pleasure of driving us back up and out of the basement. I am super impressed with how elegant this 2'600kg car can be inched up on a 30 degree incline, very impressive handling. We did not manage to damage it, yaay.
## First destination: Karesuvanto
Our first charging stop was at the lovely little town of Töre which is at the top of the Gulf of Bothnia, a little harbor town which also happens to be the crossing of a few larger highways. E4 east bound towards Finland and E10 northbound towards Gällivare and Narvik. Because we had a few minutes to kill while the battery was topping up, we went to get a little geocache at the local trucker stop. Then, after Paul had his icecream and I had a coffee, we drove up for a second leg towards high north Sweden, which is interrupted after a few kilometers by the crossing of the Arctic Circle!
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-28/IMG_4739.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
Being there is really an accomplishment in its own right. At exactly 66 degrees and 33.5 minutes, we crossed the Polcirkeln and celebrated a little bit. Then, the drive went onwards towards a town called Puoltikasvaara which sounds Finish but is actually Swedish. There, there were 6 chargers, 4 of which were the newer CCS plugs and the other two were Type2, the one that my 2015 Model S takes. I made some lunch for us, the standard issue salad, but this time with some feta that we bought yesterday at the large Coop in Sundsvall. So far so good!
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-28/IMG_4756.jpg" width="300px" float="right" >}}
Yesterday I had planned our next two days out -- first we would drive up through the arm of Finland and make a stop at Karesuvanto which has a supercharger, and then take a small cabin which we found on booking.com, for only EUR 36,- a night. Of course we were not expecting much for this amount, but at this latitude you can't really ask for a four star hotel either, and that's OK. The plan was to spend the night, and the next morning make the ~490km drive up via Kautokeino (Norway), for one last charge, and then hit Honningsvåg at the base of the Nordkapp.
Alles klar! Except, it wasn't :-) A few small things went wrong. First, as we were driving up to the Finish border, the car mentioned that we were getting out of charging range, that is to say that we were so far up north from our last supercharger, that it would be difficult to get back to it. I found it strange, because we were headed straight for one ... and indeed, when arriving in Karesuvanto, there were indeed 6 superchargers, but none of them had Type2, they were all CCS. Whoops!
Our cabin guy (who looked as you would expect a Finn to look like) made a call to his buddy down the road, Marko, who operated that gas station and restaurant at which the CCS superchargers were stationed. He reminded us that there is also an AC 3x240V charger there, which will charge us up at 22kW. That's somewhat of a relief, but I've done the math .. it will not allow us to reach any active supercharger! The one I had chosen for our trip up was in Kautokeino but it, too, is a CCS-only one. There was a guy charging his Model S there, and I noticed that he had one of those fancy CCS-to-Type2 converters, so I asked if we could use it. He was fine with that, but he mentioned as well that they have to do some retrofit hardware thing-a-ma-jigger at Tesla service center before being able to use it. Oh crap, the plot thickens.
## Second destination: Skibotn
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-28/IMG_7443.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
After some hemming and hawing and calculating our options, we made the decision to jettison the cabin in Markkina, and make our way to Tromsø instead. There's a Tesla dealership there, and maybe they can help us. Nobody in Norway or Netherlands or Switzerland is picking up the phone at Tesla, they try their best to make it easy to e-mail or use the Tesla app for help, but they do make it near impossible to get a human on the line when calling them.
After all that deliberation, we had enough battery charge to make our way to Skibotn in Norway, there's a "regular" supercharger there, and one more just a bit further North - I had originally seen these when doing the 2019 planning - in Sørkjosen. But, these are the last to original (version 2) supercharger stations. The guy with his CCS-retrofit explained that all the new ones had been version 3 and only come with CCS charging. Crap on a cracker!
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-28/IMG_4758.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
So we made a slight detour of plans, but to be fair to my Geocaching game, I did insist to get one geocache in Finland (I have never logged one here before); and I chose the one just alongside Saana, a sacred mountain (also the highest one in Finland I believe), and alongside it the cache denotes the highest highway road in Finland at 565m elevation. It's kind of funny that Paul's entire country is below that elevation, while I live just above it in Zurich Switzerland :-)
We logged the cache and made our way to the supercharger. Underway we passed the Finish-Norwegian border and we saw a beautiful white reindeer walking past, but unfortunately we didn't have a camera ready at the time. However we saw also an even more rare sight, which is to say three Moose (which Paul likes to call Meese (goose-geese -> moose-meese)) two of which jumped over the road about 200m in front of the car, the third was hanging out in the shrubs next to the road. Quite majestic animals, I will admit!
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-28/IMG_7432.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
When arriving to the hotel which I rebooked underway, it was closed. We called the number on the door, and a sleepy gentleman came downstairs after a few minutes and checked us in. It seems like we're the only ones in this entire hotel (which has 40 or so rooms), it's like ghost town on the parkinglot. Anyway, now we're settled in at the hotel in Oteren (just south of Skibotn, en route to Tromsø), with a battery entirely full and enough juice to make a round-trip from here to the Tesla shop (hopefully they can help us) and back to Skibotn for another charge.
## What now?
We have three plans, well maybe four:
*Plan A:* The Tesla guys in Tromsø can do the CCS retrofit. This would be great, as now we would be able to use all those fancy superchargers on the network, en route to Honningsvåg. This would be the best option as well for futureproofing the car, as there are bound to be more v3 charging stations built that have only the CCS plugs.
*Plan B:* We get a CHAdeMO cable, which would allow us access to several 50kW charging stations along the way - one in Alta, then Skaidi and finally Olderfjord (and from there it's 98km to Honningsvåg where the hotel will have 22kW charging available for checked in guests.
*Plan C:* We go BrokeBackMountain style, where we drive to Sørkjosen with the last v2 supercharger, tank it up to 400km autonomy, drive to Olderfjord where there's a 22kW charger, keep the car there for ~3hrs to get 150km of autonomy and then make the last leg to Honningsvåg like that.
*Plan D:* Doesn't really exist, it would be put the car on a trailer and schlepp ourselves up to the northcape like that :-)
Which will it be? Expect an update tomorrow!
## Pictures of the Day
{{< gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_4749.jpg" caption="We cross the arctic circle">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_4751.jpg" caption="Tessa is thirsty">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_4753.jpg" caption="The signs up here are in two languages">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_4755.jpg" caption="A view of a lake">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_4756.jpg" caption="The superchargers at Karesuvanto only do CCS">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_4757.jpg" caption="We find a geocache at 565m">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_4758.jpg" caption="The highest motorway in Finland, near Saana">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_7430.jpg" caption="A lake -- I don't know why we took this picture">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_7432.jpg" caption="Tessa looks sporty in tippy-toppy Sweden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_7434.jpg" caption="Tessa looks sporty in tippy-toppy Sweden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_7441.jpg" caption="Welcome to Finland">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-28/IMG_7443.jpg" caption="Our cabin (which we didn't end up staying in)">}}
{{< /gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-modal >}}
{{< gallery-script >}}

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title: 'Day 5 - Oteren (via Tromsø) to Honningsvåg'
date: 2022-08-29T21:19:08+02:00
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Categories: []
---
## Part 1: Freud explains Pim's WEiRD dream
{{< image src="/img/day5/map.png" width="400px" float="right" >}}
Paul slept not too great this last night, the bed was too small in all dimensions he said (too short, too thin and not very wide). I myself, slept like a baby on steroids, although I did have the most wonderful dream. I think Freud would say that I was coping or processing the day's events from before, which I believe is healthy. My dream had me in a sort of a Luna park but with my bicycle, where we had to run down with a hundred or so folks with really expensive race bikes, but after a while we all had to dismount in sort of a triathlon except it was in the luna park itself, where we had to do mixemup and dodge'em and I totally sucked at it. Then, when finally exiting the race somewhere near the end of the peloton, all the bikes were gone and the lady I asked for help asked me "Where did you buy your ticket to compete?" and I said "I didn't buy a ticket cuz I didn't think it was necessary at all", and she said "Aha! we have confiscated your bike and you cannot ride anymore". Such a weird way to process how I failed to recognize that CCS chargers would not be usable for my car!
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-29/IMG_4796.jpg" width="300px" float="left" >}}
Same as last night, the door to the lobby (and restaurant) were closed and locked, so we walked around the hotel a little bit and found another exit. When we were in the yard, a young lady came to us and said that the breakfast would be in Herman's place, which we failed to find. After walking the grounds a little bit she came back outside to gently nudge us into the right place. It was awesome! A tiny kitchen with a stove and everything, toaster oven, Nespresso machine, and a fridge. In the fridge was a bunch of snackables and bread and jam, and all the things you might need for a wholesome breakkie!
The really weird thing though was that we really did appear to be the only guests this night, in the hotel with 40 or so rooms. Super interesting, but we're not ones to complain on hospitality so we munched up and drank some of the milk and coffee, and started on our way to Tromsø.
## Tesla Store in Tromsø
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-29/IMG_4798.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
The drive up to the Tesla store would put us in Tromsø at around 09:30 or so, and I called ahead to the Dutch phone line and a lady called Leila assisted - she said that it would be near impossible to get a CCS retrofitted today but if we were willing to wait until tomorrow she would be able to fit us in. But I explained that we had a Plan B which would be to buy a CHAdeMO cable to do (paid) DC charging at 50kW at least, and she confirmed that I could stop by to pick it up.
At the Tesla store, a nice gentleman asked how could he help us, and we explained the situation and he did confirm that all the superchargers north of here are CCS only, but it would be possible to get one fitted today. In fact, he said it would be done by 12:30, unless my car's firmware was very old in which case it may be an hour or so more to get it fully updated.
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-29/IMG_4805.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
So we hopped into a cab to bring us to the harbor of Tromsø where we called ahead to ensure our hotel would be good for the night, the lady at Scandic Honningsvåg seemed not to worried about getting us a room "we have plenty of availability right now", probably because the summer vacation is at its end and only morons go to the Nordkapp out of season.
While walking around we did see the *Polarmuseet* and seeing as we were here to kill time anyway, we decided to go take a look. It was a quaint 3 story building with a bunch of background intel on how the nordic region fishing and hunting and things were in the good old days before Tik Tok (ie. boring but wholesome and with better online privacy). Henrieke will be pleased to know that not only was the 'activity of the day' to go get a charging cable and/or upgrade on my car, we also did a Tromsø downtown city tour, including snapping pics of the HMS Enterprise (a British navy vessel), and a small shopping spree (but we're not telling what we bought nor for whom!) so we actually also did multiple cultural things this morning.
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-29/IMG_4808.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
I guess the best part was that when we were on the top floor of the museum, I got a push notification from the Tesla app that my car was ready for pickup (at 11:40 am!) so we made our way up to the airport where the dealership is, paid the guys, and took delivery of an all new and upgraded charging system that now supports CCS. Whoohoo!
As a result of this, the trip up north now can make use of 4 additional supercharger stations, and the 240km round trip to Tromsø will pay itself back within one or two charging stops because the alternative is 50kW CHAdeMO or 22kW AC charging which will take 4-5hrs to charge the car. And, the CCS will be useful in the future for any other trips with this car. Great.
## Part 2: Tromsø to Honningsvåg
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-28/IMG_4812.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
Then we got a nice surprise, as while the folks at Tesla Tromsø were installing the CCS kit, they also tested it for us and let it charge for some 25min or so to make sure it worked, so the battery was all topped up and we were ready to jet. Our trip started just before 12:00 noon, and first stop would be the Sørkjosen charger (which is the very last one northbound that has the original Type2 connectors, in addition to the spiffy new CCS connectors of course), so we decided to give it a good go with the new plug and - as expected - it worked just fine at just over 110kW of charging. I made a caesar salad and when we were done nomming on it, we drove up the hill for about 300m elevation gain, at which point we stopped and took some pictures, the views were stunning with lots of fluffy clouds and blue waters and greens/browns on the terrain. It was magnificent, and we both enjoyed it very much. I got to drive down the hill, for about 17km or so we had negative Watt-hours per kilometer, due to smart regenerative breaking, so thank you Norway, for that!
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-28/IMG_4840.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
The last stop for us was the supercharger at Skaidi, which is quite literally in the middle of nowhere, with only a small camping/cabin site, a gas station with some *kleffe hamburgertjes* (of which we ate some!) and, since this year, three charging stations, where we got to test our CCS-only capabilities. I am so happy with this add-on we got in Tromsø!
From here we were really on the planes of northern Norway and the driving was pretty smooth with a few reindeer here and there (well, quite a few actually, we came across three separate herds, not all of which were skittish ;-) and some of which jumped the fence just as we were approaching. It was cool to shoot some pics and movies of them as we were gently rolling past in the silent automobile.
## You have arrived!
Then we arrived at Honningsvåg at just around 9pm, and had a little kerfuffle at the checkin because they could find the booking for us but it was on the wrong day. It was quickly sorted and our room was waiting for us. After _driving 4973km_, we parked the car at the neighboring Scandic hotel so that it can charge a little bit overnight. That would be useful and it'd allow us to trek around a little bit to the ([commercial](https://goo.gl/maps/TvLqNCCnYoC69rRZ8)) north cape as well as park it around the trailhead to the ([real](https://goo.gl/maps/6KNESGgtU1yLEYaQ7)) north cape tomorrow morning, when we go to hike to the Norges Nordligste geocache, which is our true _destination_ for this fantastic roadtrip.
At 7:30am we get up, get a breakfast at around 8am, and will try to go to the trailhead of Knivskjellodden by 8:45am or so. Others say:
> _Marked hiking trail, 18 km round trip from Highway E69. We used 2.5 hours on the hike to Knivskjelodden. Excellent view towards the North Cape Plateau wichs is about 1500 m south of Knivskjellodden. By walking the world’s northernmost hiking trail to Knivskjelodden, you can write your name in the hiking association’s minute book at Knivskjelodden, and buy a diploma at Nordkapp Camping as proof that you have visited Knivskjelodden and the year 2000 cairn._
## Pictures of the Day
{{< gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4796.jpg" caption="We have breakfast in Oteren - we are the only ones in the hotel">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4798.jpg" caption="Paul phones home at the Tesla dealership in Tromsø">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_7447.jpg" caption="Paul freaks out because there's a stuffed animal here">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4805.jpg" caption="The Polar Museum in Tromsø">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_7448.jpg" caption="Street art in Tromsø">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4808.jpg" caption="We have a CCS cable/converter!">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4809.jpg" caption="A random ship underway to Honningsvåg">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4810.jpg" caption="Supercharger: check!">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4812.jpg" caption="Pim poses on the high planes">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_7453.jpg" caption="An overview pano on the high planes">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4818.jpg" caption="Reindeer">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4820.jpg" caption="Reindeer">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4824.jpg" caption="Pim poses for a river underway to Honningsvåg">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4826.jpg" caption="A GPS location - we are getting closer">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4827.jpg" caption="Tessa charges at Skaidi">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_7452.jpg" caption="Pim makes some lunch at Skaidi">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4828.jpg" caption="Reindeer in front of the car">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4837.jpg" caption="Reindeer are keeping a close eye on us">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4838.jpg" caption="We are at Nordkapp kommune">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4839.jpg" caption="Paul poses at the Nordkapp kommune sign">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_7482.jpg" caption="Pim poses at the Nordkapp kommune sign">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-29/IMG_4841.jpg" caption="Cheers: We're at the hotel in Honningsvåg">}}
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title: 'Day 6 - Honningsvåg, hiking to Knivskjellodden'
date: 2022-08-30T21:19:10+02:00
Tags: []
Categories: []
---
## The Hike to Dest
{{< image src="/img/day6/map.png" width="400px" float="right" >}}
We woke up at 07:00 and were at the breakfast table at 07:45. There was a nice spread of things available and lots of folks in the hotel were already nomming on their first meal of the day. We had some scrambled eggs with toast, smoked salmon, juice, coffee, and bread rolls. That was all fine.
Then, we got our stuff from the hotel (mostly I had emptied my backpack of the usual cruft, so that I could walk the day lean and mean), and made our way to the car which was parked at Scandic Bryggen and fully charged by now. We got in and drove up in the direction of the North Cape Plateau, even though we had no intention of going there, yet.
There's a trailhead about 8km before what I lovingly call the commercial Nordkapp, and there's a bunch of campervans and cars parked there already. I jet past it to realize that, no, that was actually the parking lot for the trailhead to Knivskjellodden, a little land tongue just west of the big plateau, but little do they tell you: it's also stretching out 1500m further north than the big facility. I shall call this place the real Nordkapp. We parked the car. Let's do this!
Away we go, to the tip of that land tongue, where some clever folks have hidden a Geocache called Norges Nordligste which, when we were planning our roadtrip, had always decided would be the destination, or dest for short. This [geocache](https://www.geocaching.com/geocache/GC4E279_norges-nordligste-knivskjellodden) has a limited english description:
> _Knivskjelodden is Europe’s northernmost point (71°11’08’’). Kinnarodden on the Nordkinn peninsula is the northenmost point on the mainland. Marked hiking trail, 18 km round trip from Highway E69. We used 2.5 hours on the hike to Knivskjelodden. Excellent view towards the North Cape Plateau which is about 1500 m south of Knivskjellodden. By walking the world’s northernmost hiking trail to Knivskjelodden, you can write your name in the hiking association’s minute book at Knivskjelodden, and buy a diploma at Nordkapp Camping as proof that you have visited Knivskjelodden and the year 2000 cairn._
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-30/IMG_4885.jpg" width="300px" float="left" >}}
You'll see a bunch of folks that have this type of Scandinavian sportswear, and it sports the numbers 71°10’21’’, which you will note is a lower latitude than 71°11’08’’. Why on earth would dest for us be the iron globe at the tourist center at the end of a highway E69 all the way up to the parking lot? Nope: we are somewhat more massochistic. And besides, it's only an 18km hike and there are no mountains here. And besides besides, I regularly used to run 20km in a few hours, and these guys in the geocache description literally say it's only 2.5hrs to reach the end. Also, too, besides, we bought some nice weather proof Peak Performance gear, and we both have good hiking shoes. This should be a doozie.
The first interesting feature we saw, from the proverbial mile away, was what appeared at first glance to be snow, but upon closer inspection was actually beautiful bright white stone (possibly marble? I dunno). It was very pretty though, and equally bright green lychen were having a ball on top of them, soaking up the Sunlight and making it a spectacular sight.
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-30/IMG_4888.jpg" width="300px" float="right" >}}
A few kilometers later, the trail splits into a westbound trail and a northbound one. We are going to the North (obviously) and our spirits are high. My GPS tracker is telling us every kilometer what our pace is, and we started off great, on 13min/km, 12.5min/km and so on. Then as we went north, the terrain got a bit rougher, and Paul informs me that the outer sole of his right boot has come loose. It's only a few centimeters though, so we continue.
But it quickly escalates and before long his entire sole has come loose. The shoe has the rubber undersole, then a thick foam piece, and finally the underside of the leather piece where the foot lives. I ceremoniously tear off the last few centimeters, and Paul washes the rubber and dries it, then places it in my backpack. Although the sole has all the grip and things, the rest still does appear to be watertight and reasonably sturdy, so we continue.
Another few kilometers later and we're heading downhill to the oceanside, the slope is pretty steep and I remember my parents suggesting "it's actually quite a climb", which of course at this point in our journey is "quite a descent" but we both know that on the way back we'll have a race of the hearts.
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-30/IMG_7498.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
We descend maybe 150m to the shoreline, where the next shift of terrain happens: the path here is no longer a trail of any sort, but rather there's lots of long/large slabs of rock under a slight incline (maybe 20 degrees or so), that you have to walk along/up against. That's all fine, except I know that there's some brown/black algae or slimy growth under the water, that makes the rocks super super slippery. You literally cannot set a single step on those patches of water. So here, the trick is to plan a path that's avoiding the parts that are slippery, so that we don't break our fragile little bones. And: Paul has a handycap in that his left shoe has grip but his right one is completely out of the running, a few times I would hear some banshee screech and he would be topsyturvy, sliding down on all fours and making generally a big mess of himself. What I found funny is that at the beginning of the hike he pre-apologized for the Skoodenfroodie he would have when (not if) I fell on my face. Look who's laughing now, eh?
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-30/IMG_4901.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
But then, at the 9km mark, we see the end of the trail. There's two things of note here:
**Firstly**, there's a nice concentric pile of square rocks which signals the end of the trail. It was really euphoric to see from this angle you can look back at the North Cape Plateau where the commercial Nordkapp is situated, and you can look past the thing, which clearly shows that we're a fair bit further North here. Click on the pic for a larger variant, to see this angle from its full glory.
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-30/IMG_4914.jpg" width="300px" float="left" >}}
**Secondly**, there is a little metal box stationed here, it's pretty well closed with a bracket and a piece of rope captured in a heart shaped carabiner (nice touch, who-ever put that there), and in it, we see the treasures that previous hikers have left behind. It feels to me a little bit like a geocache, but we know it isn't, because the object we're looking for is a few hundred meters north still. But, one really funny thing is that there is a hiking boot sole in here. How cool is that, Paul has a sibling/likeminded fellow traveler, somewhere on the Earth, that went through the same thing he did, and hiked this not too light trail without a full set of accoutrements. We talked about this before, but worth telling the story again: Marina, Alex and I were once hiking in california and Alex wanted to put a sticker on a lamp post that had a few more stickers on it. I berated him for trying/wanting to do that because I consider it, err, somewhat of a vandalist act. What followed then was a long philosophical debate on when does it become vandalism? If there's 100 stickers on there, he argued, and I stick one more, is it truly vandalism? And it was a fun argument, but even though I made a few good points, I think I formally lost on this trip. Alex: click on the image and Find Sticky!
## Destination reached: You have arrived!
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-30/IMG_4908.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
From here on it was maybe just a few more steps, and just like that, after 9km and 2.5 hours of hiking (some with and some without complete shoes), we arrive at *dest*. Just a little bit North of the end of the Knivskjellodden, out of the wind and in quite a safe place, hidden in June of 2013, is this little green box. In it, a pencil, a logbook (which is kind of full, by the way), and some times some tradable items.
We did bring a pen (thanks to WEiRD, I usually go geocaching and completely forget mine ...) and after scurrying around a little bit, I am at ground zero, the location on the geocache listing, exactly at N 71° 11.069' E 025° 40.593', and there I find a conspicuous gathering of rocks (Geogrins will know what I mean) and I just know it's there. The box was quickly in hand and here's what I wrote in the geocache log:
> This log has been a few years in the making. Ever since college my buddy WEiRD and I have been doing roadtrips. Ever since 2002 I have been doing geocaching. It seemed to me, in the fall of 2019, that this would be a good combination. I live in Switzerland and he lives in the Netherlands.
> Our roadtrip was planned for June 2020, then spring of 2021, then the fall of 2021, and has been canceled three times. But this time, we made it work! I took the car from Zurich CH and had a work meeting in Munich DE. After that meeting I drove to Almere NL to pick up WEiRD and together we drove up through Germany, Denmark, Sweden, a little bit of Finland until yesterday evening we arrived at Honningsvåg.
> I refuse to visit the Nordkapp tourist center until I've visited the actual northern most point of Norway, so this morning at 08:30 we started at the parking lot, walked the Knivskjellodden trail until it ended. That was 9.1km and just about 2h35m of hiking in varying terrain and while constantly being watched by a herd of reindeer. We saw maybe 6-8 other people on this trail.
> The weather was overcast, but relatively warm (10C // 50 F) and we had peeled off most of our layers of clothing, when the Sun came out to shine on us and the wind was down a bit, we took a classic picture, camera facing south, to see the North Cape in the background, clearly lower. We clocked ourselves at N71.18441 here, while the iron globe at the touristic North Cape came in at N71.17100, so we can now safely confirm that we won the day :-)
> We had lunch at GZ after signing the log, then we hiked back (which was great, except maybe for the fact that my buddy WEiRD's right hiking boot sole came loose, whoops), otherwise we were grateful and content to be back at the car, as we had avoided all the rain until this very moment. We got into our car at 14:20 or so, and took a quick visit at the iron globe JUST SOUTH OF HERE :-)
> It was a truly amazing experience, find #6663, I wrote my name on and the date on the log using the pencil which was in the container. Log is dry and container looks to be in great shape.
> Thank you so much for bringing me here! Now, we make our way back down south and will enjoy Norway and Sweden for their beautiful nature. Geogrins: I wish you were here!
## Uh, what now?
Well, there's still a few things we should do. First of all, we should drive back down 4500km to Vienna and then to Zurich. But also: Norway is beautiful and so is Sweden. There's so much to see here, and we're not done by a long shot. My mom mentioned that there's a cool mine in Sulitjelma that we once visited when I was a teen (I remember this!) and there's a cool train from Kiruna to Narvik, and of course my all time favorite hiking trail of the scandic region: Bessegen in Jotunheimen. I think Alex will approve of us going there to see if we can find Thor, or better yet, his mischievous brother Loki.
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-30/IMG_4931.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
But before we do all that, we may as well complete the trip and make a visit to the commercial Nordkapp. I mean, it's just 9km hike and 8km by car :) so we make the return trip in high spirits and low bodily energy, it's a schlepp up that little slope from the shoreline to the plateau (Mom: you were right!), but it's still not raining and that's good. We literally count the kilometers, 13th kilometer done in 25min (including the go uphill and put your tongue on your knees panting) and 14th kilometer done in 17 minutes (including eating a few Tikkels, yum sugar gooood), and so on. When we get almost back to the car, we can literally see it, Paul loses **another piece of his fucking boot** as now the foamie part between the sole and the inside of the shoe is letting loose. He briefly stopped talking, and was marching on straight to the car to get out of this hip footwear. I felt bad for him, but not bad enough to stop cracking the occasional joke at his expense. You may sue me now.
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-30/IMG_7508.jpg" width="300px" float="right" >}}
We both get out of our boots, put on more comfortable shoes, and drive up to the commercial Nordkapp and visit the museum, which was nice, take the obligatory selfie at the iron globe (which is a symbol of sorts), and get a coffee and water to write our postcards. Because obviously you need to write postcards, right? We wrote five in total, so don't expect miracles :)
Then we went to the hotel, showered, almost fell asleep, tended to blisters and muddy clothes, and had a simple dinner in the restaurant literally across the street. Neither Paul nor I were in the mood to drive, or even to walk to the car, as we are physically wrecked. However, we're mentally euphoric and that's more important, in the long run.
## Pictures of the Day
{{< gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4880.jpg" caption="Pim and Paul at the start of the hike">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4881.jpg" caption="The sign at the trailhead">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4885.jpg" caption="White Marble">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4887.jpg" caption="Pim takes a selfie, Paul in the background marches on">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4888.jpg" caption="Paul's boot breaks: part 1">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4890.jpg" caption="Reindeer">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4894.jpg" caption="A little wooden bridge">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4895.jpg" caption="Our shadows, loyal companions">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4899.jpg" caption="We are definitely North of Nordkapp plateau">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4900.jpg" caption="Pim at the Knivskjellodden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4908.jpg" caption="Pim finds Norge's Nordligste">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4909.jpg" caption="Pim signs the log of Norge's Nordligste">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4910.jpg" caption="Paul phones home at the real nordkapp">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4911.jpg" caption="Our spread - tasty lunch!">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4912.jpg" caption="The GPS at the real nordkapp">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_7498.jpg" caption="Nordkapp from Knivskjellodden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4914.jpg" caption="The box with an IPng sticker">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4915.jpg" caption="Overview of the way back from Knivskjellodden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4918.jpg" caption="An overview of the Atlantic at Knivskjellodden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4919.jpg" caption="We eat beef jerky, omm nomm">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_7490.jpg" caption="Pim walks back over the wooden bridge">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4920.jpg" caption="An overview of the white marble">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4923.jpg" caption="Paul's boot breaks: part 2">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4925.jpg" caption="Pim and Paul at commercial nordkapp">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4927.jpg" caption="The commercial nordkapp">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4929.jpg" caption="Pim at the iron globe at Nordkapp">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4930.jpg" caption="The GPS at commercial Nordkapp">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4931.jpg" caption="Pim and Paul at the iron globe at Nordkapp">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4933.jpg" caption="The chapel at Nordkapp">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_7502.jpg" caption="A GPS overview of exactly how far north we've come">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_7505.jpg" caption="Paul at the iron globe at Nordkapp">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_7508.jpg" caption="Pim sends mail!">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4957.jpg" caption="A tasty beer after our hike">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-30/IMG_4958.jpg" caption="Our hike GPS track">}}
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title: 'Day 7 - Honningsvåg (via Hammerfest) to Kautokeino'
date: 2022-08-31T19:03:12+02:00
Tags: []
Categories: []
---
## About those hiking boots...
{{< image src="/img/day7/map.png" width="300px" float="right" >}}
As Pim reported yesterday, there was this slight inconvenience with my boots during the hike, so we should remedy that first. Pim was already threatening to hike the Besseggen trail without me, if I didn't have shoes (I do have shoes .. but my driving shoes should really only be used for driving, the sole is pretty worn out, and I have a pair of 'decent' shoes, not something to hike on). So the evening before, at the Corner restaurant, I asked the nice waitress if she knew any places that sell shoes in Honningsvåg. As she was just a temporary inhabitant (she originally came from Estonia with her boyfriend for this summer job), she wasn't too familiar with the local footwear specialists. Perhaps I could try the sporting goods store, just around the corner.
After paying for our meal, we decided to check it out .. and indeed, just around the corner was an Intersport. The sign in the window said the store would open at 9am, so we would make sure to be there at 9 sharp. Of course, at 9 we were still eating our breakfast in the Scandic hotel, so a brabants kwartiertje later, we walked into the Intersport. Now, the next challenge: my feet are slightly larger than average. Back home, when I want to buy new shoes, the first question I ask is "do you have anything in 47 or 48" (about size 14 in the US). Quite frequently, the answer is "nothing", so I already feared that I was on a mission impossible buying shoes in my size in friggin' Norway. Imagine my surprise that this particular shop not only had shoes in my size, but various options for hiking boots in size 48! So, 15 minutes and what seems to have been a billion NOK later, Pim and I jump in the car with new shoes (and hiking pants).
## Where to go next?
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-31/IMG_4973.jpg" width="300px" float="right" >}}
**Hammerfest** - Given our amazing planning skills, we discuss "where next" while driving there. We're on the E69, headed south; our final destination is Vienna, but we're not even close to going there yet. Looking at the map, we decide to check who's holding Mjölnir, so Hammerfest it is. On our way there, reindeer accompany us a little bit too close for our comfort, as they walk across the road along Kvaløya (reindeer steak seems like a good thing to try, but probably best to not butcher them with a Tesla) so we carefully slalom around various antlered animals towards Hammerfest. Which then turns out to be pretty much what you'd expect it to be: small. We park the car (for free! Norway has the awesome thing where electric cars can park for free in public parking spaces) and start exploring. First stop is a pharmacy for some lip balm and iodine. Then we discover that most food places in Hammerfest (and there are quite a few more than we expected) are generally of the 'fast' kind. So we rock up to Fresh and order a hamburger. Definitely a lot better than the one we got in Skaidi! After lunch, we walk around the town a bit more and buy some groceries for salads. There's a geocache to be found, but then it's time to continue our journey.
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-08-31/IMG_4988.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
**Kautokeino** - Navigation set to Kautokeino, with a charging stop in Alta, only 270 km - easy peezy, lemon squeezy! It's a truly beautiful ride across a magnificent country. We arrive in Kautokeino at the hotel (there's only one), check in, and look for dinner options. Two seconds later, it is obvious that we're eating in the hotel: the other two places are, shall we say, not very appealing and after that Google suggests some restaurant in Tromsø (thanks G, only 400 km for dinner .. we know we're on a roadtrip, but that is overdoing it even for our standards). A quick shower later, we're ready for food which turns out to be quite nice! That reindeer we didn't filet on our way to Hammerfest is on the menu and it's quite good. Pim is not too much into game, so he has the cod, which was also very nice. Then, after dinner, I decide to go for a test drive in my brand new hiking boots. Luring Pim with a geocache at the local church, he joins for a 4km walk around downtown Kautokeino (there may not be many inhabitants, but they're pretty far between, so it's still quite large). A day well spent, we then go to sleep pretty tired and satisfied!
## Pictures of the Day
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{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4960.jpg" caption="Tessa poses while we sit in a traffic jam">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4962.jpg" caption="Pim hanging out at the traffic jam">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4967.jpg" caption="Bridge to Hammerfest">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4968.jpg" caption="Reindeer tracking our car">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4969.jpg" caption="Reindeer staring at our car">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_7516.jpg" caption="Reindeer">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4971.jpg" caption="Electric vehicles park for free here">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4972.jpg" caption="Delicious burger and fries">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4973.jpg" caption="A little gazebo in Hammerfest">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4974.jpg" caption="Water overlooking Hammerfest">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4975.jpg" caption="A statue of Adolf Lindstrom">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4977.jpg" caption="The bridge to Hammerfest">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4980.jpg" caption="Paul munches beef jerky">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4981.jpg" caption="A random lake.">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4983.jpg" caption="Cheese and reindeer/moose cured meats">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4986.jpg" caption="A geocache at the local church in Kautokeino">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_4988.jpg" caption="The church of Kautokeino (overview)">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-08-31/IMG_7522.jpg" caption="The church of Kautokeino (closeup)">}}
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title: 'Day 8 - Kautokeino (via Kiruna, SE) to Narvik (NO)'
date: 2022-09-01T21:53:13+02:00
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## Breakfast
{{< image src="/img/day8/map.png" width="400px" float="right" >}}
This morning we got up at our usual time, 07:00, although every time I get up at our usual time, Paul is already nose-deep in his phone doing some reading. I think he gets up at a .. let's say, somewhat earlier time than I do :-) We went to the lobby and through to the restaurant where we had dinner yesterday and there were folks chattering away and eating/drinking their breakfast feast. Walking through the room, I again saw that the Norwegians really do cherish their breakfast buffet. Marina will remember (not so fondly) the breakfast we've had in California as we were tripping around Santa Cruz, Half Moon Bay, Marin and there we have dry (corn-syrup) bread (with scrambled eggs and some form of protein in the shape of a hamburger patty), bitter filter coffee, super sweet orange juice extract, and sugary cornflakes (or froot loops) - compared to this country where invariably we have (included) breakfast with fresh juice, coffee and teas, smoked salmon, salami, ham, goat/sheep/cow's milk cheese, fresh bread, bagels, grapes, cut fruit salad, and so on. It's refreshing, and we cannot help but stock up and overeat at little bit, at least I do definitely eat a lot more breakfast than I eat at home (which is actually a division by zero error, because I don't eat breakfast at home!). One thing I did notice though, is yesterday Paul paid NOK 219 for our starter, and the exact same ingredients were here now as well. Pro tip: skip dinner, and go directly for breakfast!
I had arranged today to meet somebody to talk about VPP (a nerdy project I work on in my spare time), so between 09:00-10:30 I went to do a sort of live training and explained a bit about vpp, linux-cp and vppcfg; and we'll continue that a little bit later after the guys I talked to get their hands dirty and generate a few more questions for me to chew on. In the mean time, Paul did the dishes and charged the car at the local supercharger in Kautokeino. The dishes (really only our salad bowls) were a few days stale, but Paul came back to the hotel to report that (a) the car was fully charged and (b) the salad bowls did not yet spawn new life forms. Especially the latter was quite the relief! By the way, later in the afternoon today, I got a quick call from my buddy Rayhaan, whom I've helped to get a 10Gbit L2VPN from his house to the local NTT datacenter in Rümlang, and he was on-site to patch in his side. It worked, and he reported 0.7ms from his house and 9.8Gbit in both directions. Switzerland is kind of cool when it comes to high speed internet, but I digress ...
## An Attitude of Gratitude
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-01/IMG_4992.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
The reason why we chose Kautokeino as a destination is because it affords us a return trip via Finland where we originally got "stuck" on account of not having a CCS charger cable. Our cabin guy in Markkino referred us to a local called Marko who operates the gas station and local eatery -- he had also installed the superchargers and CHAdeMO, and even a "regular" 22kW charging station, which we gratefully made use of when we had to bail the other day (see the post about Tesla dealership in Tromsø for details!). But Paul and I definitely agreed that it would be fun, if not simply required, to make a stop here on the way back to say thanks to Marko. The picture here is us happily charging the car in the supercharger station that we had to skip on the way up. Whoot! Marko was not around, but I wrote him a little thank-you note and gave it to the gas station folks. I'm sure he'll be pleased to see that we stopped by on the way back. Now that our dishes are cleaned (thanks again, WEiRD), I made us a usual salad based on iceberg, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, and red bellpepper. Paul had found us some protein to go with that, sundried tomatoes with feta cheese. Nyam - I really love sitting in the trunk of the car, slicing vegetables and listening to the music Tessa (we named our Model S 'Tessa') puts out. We enjoyed the foozle, very much.
## Choices Choices Choices
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-01/IMG_4996.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
After this, we have to make some hard life choices. We'd really want to go to the three-country-point (Norway, Sweden, Finland) in Kilpisjärvi, but unfortunately the hike is 12km one-way, and the boat that takes you most of the way there is leaving at 15:00 and it's already after 14:00, so we won't be able to make that one. My dad had mentioned though that the train ride from Narvik to Kiruna is a nice thing to do, so we decide to do that -- but with a twist: we're going to go from Kiruna to Narvik (the other direction, which I'm sure is equally beautiful), but also drive it rather than take the train, because the latter is a 7hrs investment, and we have to end up in Narvik anyway, so it'd be a 7hrs (train) + 3hrs (car) investment, which is a bit much, even for us!
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-01/IMG_4999.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
So off we go, over to Kiruna, we make a little pitstop and take a look at the train station, and as well a spiffy new vista point called Luossavaara Utsikt which hasn't even been fully built yet. We drove up most of the way on dirt road, but my lord, the views there are stunning. Absolutely gorgeous overview of the old mines in Kiruna, some of them turned into lakes, but all of them really impressive for their size. After we take in the views from all 360 degrees, we see some approaching rain from the North, so we decide to ghost. We get into the car, Paul lets it spin downhill at -172 Wh/kilometer and we reattach to the E6 westbound for Narvik. My dad was right: this valley and its lake Tarneträsk to the North is stunning. Especially in the later evening, when the sunlight makes the water shine and glitter, we both very much enjoyed the drive. Good activity =)
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-01/IMG_5016.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
We make one last stop to charge at Björkliden, where I claim Björk flies out to write her songs, a joke that Paul is not amused by, and our first charger of the three is malfunctioning, so briefly I have a 'holy shit' moment. However, the second one pumps electrons at 110kW, so we're good. We sit inside for a bit, drink a coffee (and Paul eats his ice cream), and shortly there-after we're on our way.
The hotel in Narvik, another Thon, is quaint, on the top of the hill, overlooking the water and the 1.5km long bridge Hålogalandsbrua over the fjord to get here. We somehow planned ahead (three whole days!) but I'm not gonna spill the beans yet. Faithful readers of this blog will soon find out what else we have in stock after we depart Narvik, but I will drop a hint. It's due West of here.
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-01/IMG_5017.jpg" width="300px" float="right" >}}
We rock up to a local pizzeria, where two nice gents serve us a really tasty pie, Paul ordered one with Gorgonzola and salami, and mine (pictured) was ham, salami and minced beef with onions. They tasted really well. To close off the day, we went to a local charging station (not Supercharger), because the car has 220km in the battery and the next supercharger is 180km away, seeing as we'll lose a bit of charge overnight and it's only 6C at the moment, we figure it's best to put a little bit of money into the Fortum pockets and charge locally. I am pleased to find that they have CHAdeMO (50kW), Type2 (22kW) and CCS (50kW), so of course we plug in our spiffy CCS outlet and charge at a respectable 40kW until the battery is entirely full. Hell yeah. I'm really gonna enjoy doing roadtrips with all these charging capabilities. Tomorrow morning, we leave Westbound from Narvik. Good night!
## Pictures of the Day
{{< gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_4990.jpg" caption="Welcome to Finland">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_4992.jpg" caption="The car really charging at Marko's place">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_4994.jpg" caption="Welcome to Sweden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_4995.jpg" caption="Kiruna train station">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_4996.jpg" caption="The statue at Kiruna station">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_4997.jpg" caption="Beautiful views of Kiruna">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_4998.jpg" caption="Beautiful views of Kiruna">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_5002.jpg" caption="The mines at Kiruna">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_7527.jpg" caption="The mines at Kiruna">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_5003.jpg" caption="The car with inifinty-views">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_5004.jpg" caption="Beautiful views of Kiruna">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_5010.jpg" caption="The car charging at Björkliden">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_5011.jpg" caption="The view from Björkliden charging station">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_5015.jpg" caption="Welcome to Norway">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-01/IMG_5016.jpg" caption="Our pizza in Narvik was delicous">}}
{{< /gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-modal >}}
{{< gallery-script >}}

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---
title: 'Day 9 - Narvik to Moskenes'
date: 2022-09-02T16:40:27+02:00
Tags: []
Categories: []
---
## Breakfast
{{< image src="/img/day9/map.png" width="400px" float="right" >}}
Honestly today we didn't doo too much. We got up at our usual 7am (ish) and did the morning ritual. In the restaurant, folks were already having the, now rather common, break-feast. There were soft boiled eggs, so I had a few. Otherwise, there was this really nice freshly baked bread with a nice crumb and crunchy crust. It goes great with salmon and salami and a nice drink of orange juice. Alright, after that standard issue delicious start of the day, all that rests us is to go West. Going in that direction from Narvik only can mean one thing -- and we took a good look at how the Lofoten might be at this time of year. Usually, they'd be only 10C, maybe 12C, and are known to be cloudy due to them poking out into the Atlantic. But for some reason the next few days are going to be bright and sunny, perfect weather for a hike!
## Svolvær
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-02/IMG_5020.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
We didn't really feel like going there and back, as it's 6hrs of driving only to get to the tip of the islands in a town called Å i Lofoten but luck has it, there's a ferry service from Moskenes to Bodø down south of there. Usually, taking a car on a ferry is a daunting task (it can be quite expensive), but here the Norwegians have another surprise for us Tesla-goers. The price of a car from Moskenes to Bodø is NOK 970 but if you drive an electric vehicle they'll give you the passage for NOK 577! Well, stingy as we are we'll be happy to save ourselves 6hrs just to get back to Narvik and in addition 5hrs to get to Bodø by car. So we're happy campers, and book the boat trip for the 4th (two days from now).
Driving to the tip takes a while, but also consumes energy, so we had to stop in the main city called Svolvær, where I made our salad-lunch and we stopped by the local shopping mall for a quick bathroom break, and we did the dishes while we were at it. No more gross salad bowls for us! I found Svolvær kind of cute, with a bustling city center, lots of shopping, and when walking around a little we saw this cute stone with a spherical out-take, it kind of reminds me of a big stone egg. It was at the local hospital.
## Borg
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-02/IMG_5029.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
Where I work there's a thing called _Borg_, some computer cluster management system. There's also an opensource data backup system called _Borg_ but little did I know, there's also a whole **town** called _Borg_ in the Lofoten. Paul's fancy was tickled because of the name being a star trek reference, so he had done some research while driving, noticing that there's a Viking museum right here in Borg. We would have been arriving at the AirBNB a bit early (14:45) so we figured we may as well spend some time learning about the old ways. There was a lot to see and learn, including a reconstruction of a rather large (85m) Chieftains house, a church (_Borg Kyrke_) and a viking boat as well. There was a little bit of military activity also, we saw a huge C130 fly over, and a few fighterjets were in the skies as well. I wonder what they're doing over here in the Lofoten, but certainly the vikings came a long way from those wooden boats!
## Moskenes
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-02/IMG_5066.jpg" width="300px" float="left" >}}
Finally we arrive at 5pm or so in Moskenes, which is almost but not quite the tip of the islands there. I think it's cool that we manage to get to this place, while at the same time not having to double back over these windy roads, but rather get to Bodø the day after tomorrow. Moskenes is a small town dominated by its harbor. I found an AirBnB rather than a hotel. It's nice here, we were the first to arrive, and looped by the local Coop to get some food for the next two days. I have a fond memory of Pytt i Panna some form of deep frozen gröstl which Marina and I (and before that, my parents and I) would often eat while underway. This time though, we're going legit because we have a kitchen in this AirBnb cabin.
Paul will cook tonight and I'll do it tomorrow. Today is Red Pasta, which is a Fussili with bell pepers, onion, minced beef, sundried and cubed tomatoes, garlic and a little bit of red chilli pepper. It was truly delicious, a job well done!
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-02/IMG_5063.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
We also bought breakfast for two days and will do our best to recreate the now all too familiar Norwegian breakfast scene, and some energy for tomorrow on our hike to [Tindstinden](https://www.rando-lofoten.net/en/tindstinden-en), which will afford us some wonderful views at equally wonderful weather.
We were joined at 7pm or so by two Finnish hiker ladies, they remind me of Mari in a way: when they speak to us we totally understand, but when they speak amongst themselves, they have a very strong cryptographic communication. They made pizza, and tripped the breaker from the oven, although they were happy because the pizza was done. Hopefully no other folks check in for the night, heh, as they will not have power for the stove :-)
## Pictures of the Day
{{< gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5020.jpg" caption="The hospital at Svolvaer">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_7534.jpg" caption="Welcome to Nordland">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5022.jpg" caption="Wax statues at the Lofoten museum in Borg">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5025.jpg" caption="A chieftains house at the Lofoten museum in Borg">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5028.jpg" caption="A dragon's head">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_7545.jpg" caption="The exit-sign in the Lofoten museum in Borg">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5029.jpg" caption="0.5 Selfie on a (replica) viking ship">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5049.jpg" caption="A vikingship at the Lofoten museum in Borg">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5059.jpg" caption="A vikingship at the Lofoten museum in Borg">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5060.jpg" caption="A quaint church in Borg">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5061.jpg" caption="A chieftains house at the Lofoten museum in Borg">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5066.jpg" caption="Paul makes dinner - Red Pasta, in our AirBnB in Moskenes">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5068.jpg" caption="The dinenr Paul made, super nice pasta">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5107.jpg" caption="Pim and Paul go geocaching in the harbor">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_7551.jpg" caption="A Boaty-mc-Boatface in Moskenes harbor">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5109.jpg" caption="Pim takes a selfie in the harbor of Moskenes">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_5111.jpg" caption="The church of Moskenes">}}
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-02/IMG_7539.jpg" caption="Water. We have a lot of it in Norway">}}
{{< /gallery-category >}}
{{< gallery-modal >}}
{{< gallery-script >}}

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---
title: 'Have you seen this Alien?'
date: 2022-08-26T17:18:43+02:00
Tags: []
Categories: []
---
## Missing Alien
{{< image src="/img/lost-alien/uhi.jpg" width="400px" >}}
Have you seen this Alien? His name is Uhi, and he was last spotted in Almere, the Netherlands. He is 25cm (12 inches) tall, pink skin with magenta legs, arms, top of ears and antenna stubs. He weighs about 220g (8 oz) and speaks Dutch, English, Klingon and Alinsk. Very friendly and approachable, I'm pretty sure he would like to be reunited with his family in Brüttisellen, Switzerland.
* LAST SEEN: 2022-08-25 at 07:35am CEST
* WHERE: Almere, Netherlands
* RETURN TO: Pim van Pelt

4
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#!/bin/sh
hugo -D --cleanDestinationDir
rsync -avugP public/ 2022roadtripnose.weirdnet.nl:2022roadtripnose/

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