186 lines
12 KiB
Markdown
186 lines
12 KiB
Markdown
---
|
|
title: 'Day 10 - Moskenes, hiking Tindstinden'
|
|
date: 2022-09-03T17:40:27+02:00
|
|
Tags: []
|
|
Categories: []
|
|
---
|
|
|
|
## The Plan
|
|
|
|
{{< image src="/img/day10/map.png" width="300px" float="right" >}}
|
|
|
|
Yesterday night we went to bed not too late, because we knew we had a big day
|
|
today. I didn't sleep all too well, the matrass is a bit lumpy and I was on the
|
|
top bed of the bunk. I tossed and turned a bit before falling asleep, and I woke
|
|
up with a little bit of a lower back ache. I'm getting old! Although I put the
|
|
alarm at 08:00, I was up before that, but it was way too late apparently,
|
|
because all of our housemates had already left for the day.
|
|
|
|
We came to the Lofoten for one thing -- hiking. There's a few really nice trails
|
|
in Norway, and one of them is yet to come (Besseggen in the Jotunheimen, Alex
|
|
will know who lives there!), but today we have another one that's on my list.
|
|
Being in (almost) the most Western point of the Lofoten, there's only one town
|
|
further down the road, and we're going to climb the mountain between _Moskenes_
|
|
where our AirBnB is, and that town of _Å i Lofoten_. It's called Tindstinden,
|
|
and overlooks a few beautiful lakes, towns along the shoreline, and the
|
|
Atlantic. You can see mainland Norway in the background, and if you'd look the
|
|
other way, you'd see nothing for about 5'700 kilometers.
|
|
|
|
## Breakfast
|
|
|
|
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-03/IMG_5113.jpg" width="300px" float="left" >}}
|
|
|
|
But first, breakfast. I was in charge of bacon-frying, and Paul was in charge of
|
|
eggs-making. This is a very intricate procedure, because you never know how long
|
|
to boil an egg before it gets too hard, or if it's not long enough, snotty. And
|
|
I have a very low tolerance for incorrectly boiled eggs. "Het is een
|
|
natuurproduct!" is what my Dad says - and he's right except products of nature
|
|
can also be royally fucked up. But, Paul persevered and made us some totally
|
|
delicious eggs. Today's eggs have been boiled for 5 minutes give or take. Marina
|
|
commented that they're a bit too goopy, and we agree, so tomorrow he shall boil
|
|
the egg for 30 seconds longer.
|
|
|
|
We had some nice salmon, salami, _Sommarsalat_, the eggs and toast. I made some
|
|
Nescafe coffee, but it just isn't as good for me as the Nespresso is. That's OK,
|
|
I'll just make two cups to compensate! We pack our backpacks, and I find that
|
|
for the last few hundred kilometers (and 19km of hiking), I've been toting
|
|
around the coins that Marina had given me: Swedish, Danish and Norwegian Crowns.
|
|
I decide I have no use for them right now, so I toss them aside. We then put on
|
|
our spiffy new hiking pants, and Paul puts on his blue hiking shoes, we jump in
|
|
the car and make the 4km trip to the trailhead. Lots of people hike to
|
|
_Munkebu_, but not us. We're going up up up!
|
|
|
|
## The Trail
|
|
|
|
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-03/IMG_5139.jpg" width="300px" float="right" >}}
|
|
|
|
We start off at the [trailhead](https://goo.gl/maps/JmRRtYZTnhFgjTe36) just a
|
|
kilometer or so NorthEast of Tind. We park the car and draw a nasty conclusion:
|
|
Maybe I did need those coins after all! The parking here is paid, and it's one
|
|
of those honor-systems, where you grab an envelope from a little kiosk, put in
|
|
the required NOK 50 and put your name/address on the slip, taking the stub and
|
|
putting it in your car. Drat! I just tossed the coins in the drawer at the
|
|
AirBnB. Luckily, Paul has a EUR 10,- note, so we figure that will have to do.
|
|
Paul gleefully writes my home address on the slip though, so that when I get the
|
|
parking ticket, he can laugh at me a little bit. I acquiece.
|
|
|
|
We make our way up the trail, and the first few hundred meters it's quaint.
|
|
Then, the slope steepens and we're pretty clear that we're in for it. Although
|
|
the hike is only ~3km to the peak of the mountain here (from sea level to 492m /
|
|
1'600ft), the slope is the thing that kills you. We're attacking this
|
|
mountain-let on all fours. The terrain is rough, there is hardly any marked
|
|
path, the only reason we know we're headed in the right direction is on account
|
|
of the stomping-feet-hoofmarks of the humans before us. Every now and again we
|
|
see a few folks, they are all going up-hill too.
|
|
|
|
I kind of get annoyed at my Apple watch - every few minutes it does the 'taptap'
|
|
on my wrist to ask me if it should stop recording my workout, as it clearly
|
|
thinks I am doing nothing. In fact, I am panting and my lungs are on the tip of
|
|
my tongue, it's just I'm not making much forward progress so the silly thing
|
|
thinks I'm not hiking. Well, Apple, my heartrate of 170 disagrees!!
|
|
|
|
In the middle of the trail, in for me a somewhat random location, we find a
|
|
mailbox. It is not locked, and in it is a logbook in which I happily write my
|
|
geocaching signature "Pim from CH" with the date. There are no geocaches on this
|
|
trail, and we're about to enter a national park, so there will not be any on the
|
|
summit either. This will be my ersatz-geocache :-)
|
|
|
|
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-03/IMG_7572.jpg" width="400px" float="left" >}}
|
|
|
|
The higher we get, the more stunning the views are. We really did choose a good
|
|
day to go hiking here, the temps are high (15C / 60F) and perfect for hiking.
|
|
There's almost no wind, the sun is bright and you can see really far. Under us,
|
|
the towns of Tind, Sørvågen, Moskenes and _end of the road_ Å i Lofoten are all
|
|
smiling up to us. Some really beautiful lakes are in view too - Stuvdalsvatnet
|
|
and Sørvågvatnet from whence we came, and Tindsvatnet on the other side of the
|
|
mountain. On the ridge up, you can see all these lakes and towns, and every now
|
|
and again a ferry bobs up and down the ocean, mostly going from Moskenes to
|
|
Bodø, as we'll do tomorrow morning. But first, we have to hike back down.
|
|
|
|
We have a spot of lunch and I eat some Tikkels, and we bounce. The way down is
|
|
not as much fun for me. I have a mild fear of heights, so this trail is really
|
|
not for me. I don't really have a problem going up, however I do have a bit more
|
|
difficulty going downhill. At one point, I am afraid I have to report there are
|
|
chains and ropes to help climb up/down, and I cannot put myself to doing it. I
|
|
hemm and haw, and ultimately just YOLO it and, as if often the case, the step
|
|
down is really only 40cm, and my fears here are irrational. After that little
|
|
victory, the trip down gets easier. And all-in, we spend 2.25hrs going up this
|
|
hill but only 1.25hrs going down it. We take a few ... shortcuts, and end up
|
|
taking a slightly different route down than up. We returned to the car at around
|
|
14:00.
|
|
|
|
When we were up there, we saw that the E10 ends in Å i Lofoten, and it makes a
|
|
nice little loop there to turn around. We looked it up: The E10 goes from here
|
|
all the way to Luleå in Sweden, an 847 kilometer highway. So we had to go check
|
|
out that end-point, and we took a picture of Tessa there: end of the road for
|
|
you!
|
|
|
|
## What else ?
|
|
|
|
{{< image src="/img/thumbnails/2022-09-03/IMG_5263.jpg" width="400px" float="right" >}}
|
|
|
|
Well, yesterday Paul cooked a fantastic meal for us (Red Pasta), and we had also
|
|
bought what I call my _dejetlag steak_, which is broccoli, potatoes, sauteed
|
|
onions and mushrooms, and a big steak. Big is not done in Norway (the meat here
|
|
is pretty pricy), so we did Big-ish. We decided to move the blog from blogger to
|
|
a self-hosted solutiion (based on Hugo), out of principle:
|
|
|
|
* I wanted to have a photo roll at the bottom of each post (as you see down below).
|
|
* And, if you click on a thumbnail, I want it to show you the full resolution picture with a little caption.
|
|
* To do this, I don't want to end up editing javascript and HTML as would be the case for Blogger.
|
|
* Ideally, I would just add a link to a Google Photos gallery, but this is not available at all.
|
|
|
|
So out of pure rage and on silly principle, I decided to quit Blogger and move
|
|
to a Hugo hosted site on Paul's server. That decision was quickly made, and it
|
|
took us the rest of the evening (from 15:00 - now: 23:20), to convert verything
|
|
and build the server + SSL certs + photos and such. But: we have what we want
|
|
and the next time we do a roadtrip, this will be trivial :-) I will also convert
|
|
our 2013 roadrip to the UK + IE, and 2010 roadtrip from New York to Los Angeles,
|
|
into the same formatting. It's slick!
|
|
|
|
Tomorrow morning at 11:00 we drive down the street and into the harbor of
|
|
Moskenes, to take the ferry to Bodø, the one which we've seen come and go a few
|
|
times already. Tomorrow we'll be on it, for four hours. The car has 240km of
|
|
autonomy, and we'll need 120km to get to our first Supercharger in _Storjord_. I
|
|
guess you could say we really did plan these few days well!!
|
|
|
|
## Pictures of the Day
|
|
|
|
{{< gallery-category >}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5113.jpg" caption="Soft boiled egg to start the day">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5115.jpg" caption="Waterfall at the trail start in Sørvågen">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5139.jpg" caption="0.5 Selfie of Pim, overlooking Stuvdalsvatnet">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5158.jpg" caption="A wide angle view of Stuvdalsvatnet">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5159.jpg" caption="A cute logbook halfway up the trail, signed with Pim from CH">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5160.jpg" caption="The ferry is leaving from Moskenes">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5164.jpg" caption="Paul is marching up the mountain">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5165.jpg" caption="Pim and Paul at the top of Tindstinden">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5168.jpg" caption="Pim and Paul at the top of Tindstinden">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5170.jpg" caption="A GPS location of us on the tip of Lofoten">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5172.jpg" caption="Looking down on the dark-water lakes below">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5173.jpg" caption="Paul at the summit">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5175.jpg" caption="Pim at the summit">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5179.jpg" caption="The town of Tind with Moskekes to its left">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5182.jpg" caption="A waterfall along the way">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5184.jpg" caption="Tessa is at the end of the E10 - it loops back here">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5185.jpg" caption="Tindstinden, the mountain we just hiked up">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7554.jpg" caption="Paul is posing in front of the waterfall">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7562.jpg" caption="0.5 Selfie of Paul">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7566.jpg" caption="Moskenes in the left background, Tind in to the right in foreground">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7570.jpg" caption="Ågvatnet is stunning from up here">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7572.jpg" caption="We are on our way back down the slopes">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7574.jpg" caption="Another angle of Ågvatnet down below">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7575.jpg" caption="The town of Å i Lofoten">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7576.jpg" caption="The ridge we walked over on the way to Tindstinden">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7584.jpg" caption="Pim is triumphant after coming back down the mountain">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7585.jpg" caption="Sørvågvatnet with behind it, Sørvågen">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_7586.jpg" caption="The mountain doesn't look as intimidating from down here">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5186.jpg" caption="Paul is relaxing on the couch">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5261.jpg" caption="Our GPS trail of the hike today">}}
|
|
{{< gallery-photo fn="2022-09-03/IMG_5263.jpg" caption="Dinner: 'dejetlag-steak'">}}
|
|
{{< /gallery-category >}}
|
|
|
|
|
|
{{< gallery-modal >}}
|
|
{{< gallery-script >}}
|